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 Small, friendly Cayman Brac -- population 1,500-- is part of the Cayman Islands in the western Caribbean. The island is named for the "brac" (Scottish for "bluff") that runs down its center.
Meg Lukens Noonan, in the Premier issue of Aqua, a sister to Islands magazine, sums it up, "everyone greets everyone else. The day I drive a rental car around the island, I need one hand available at all times to return waves. "This is the infectious flavor of Cayman Brac. I arrived a bit steamed up and stressed, but soon found my face relaxed, smiling and arms waving back. A few days later and I was initiating the wave.
Most people arriving on "the Brac," packing fins, mask and snorkel. With the usual 100+ foot underwater visibility, the underwater scene is a major attraction. Many visitors also have a full complement of scuba diving equipment. The Brac has some of the finest diving on the planet and for an added bonus, Brac boats can zip over to Little Cayman for the Bloody Bay Wall experience.
Christopher Columbus visited The Brac in 1503 and found it alive with sea turtles and small crocodile-like caymans. This, combined with the island's topography, produced the island's name. A bluff ("brac" in Gaelic) runs down the island's center line. For a time, pirates found the island caves a delightful place to hide booty. Back then, it was a Who's Who in Piracy: Blackbeard, Morgan and others. Later, the caves were a high-ground refuge from hurricanes. In 1932, an especially violent one wreaked havoc on the island. Most of the island's residents survived by hiding in Peter's Cave, high on a north side bluff.
Today, there are about 1,600 residents on the Brac. Most are native Brac'rs, but the number of people buying property is growing. The island has an active real estate market. Still, it is a small island and it will be a long time before urban crowding becomes an issue. Old habits die hard, but locking one's car has become a lost art. The Brac is one of the safest and crime-free islands in the Caribbean.
The island's cultural heritage is interwoven with its natural environment. Brackers have long depended on the sea for food as well as enjoyment--to know Cayman Brac is to care about its treasures.
There is acre after acre of brilliant turquoise sea. Snorkelers can also enjoy the many treasures in the sea. The iron shore offers spectacular opportunities since sights aren't clouded by sand. There is an abundance of coral reef and a multitude of life dependent upon it. Transparent waters allow a clear view of sea turtles, lobsters, queen angel fish, tarpons, nurse sharks, flying gurnards, grouper, barracuda and more.
The underwater environment is as fragile as it is beautiful. There are several marine preservation areas on the island; these are marked by signs. They are a reminder that we have a responsibility to preserve and protect the environment in the sea. They also offer an opportunity to observe a variety of species of birds when they gather for feeding. What a wonder to behold! Whether you are watching the birds or observing the exciting community beneath the sea, be respectful of the lives you encounter so that your enjoyment does not cause disruption.
Coral isn't a rock, it is a living community. When in contact with the coral world, approach with care. Even touching the reef can have a damaging and severe impact on the natural environment. Be prepared to enjoy a gorgeous view. And, remove nothing from the water. Sea life, like that on land, is an intricate and complex system. Everything has a purpose and use. Even an empty shell will become a home for another creature.
Notable diving attractions are the walls of both the Brac and Little Cayman and the frigate wreck. A Russian frigate was purchased from Cuba and sun in 1996 within swimming distance of the north side of the island off the defunct Buccaneer Hotel property. It is perfectly situated for divers of all skill levels. The stern is in shallow water and the deepest section of the bow rests on the sand at about 90fsw. Fish, large and small, are turning the wreck into home. Divers will consume a lot of compressed air before they've seen it all.
The walls around the two islands are pictures of perfection. Arches, swimthrus, cracks, gorgonian, sponges and fans all compete for a diver's attention. Shine a light on the muted blue structures and the reds, yellows, oranges and purples will spin all your color wheels at once.
The diving community is fond of leaving colorful driftwood signs as a record of their visit. Many use the "Brac" or a sound-alike in their message. Because the island leaves such an impression on people, the overriding refrain is "Back To The Brac."
Enjoy the view and respect the sea. Then, the beauty will be there when you return on your next visit or will offer another the same joy.
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